(This is part two of a five-part series. Part one can be found here. Stay tuned for the rest of the series.)
The Bourbon Trail started as a way for my dad and I to continue bonding after my mom passed away. It wasn’t about the drinking (well, maybe we were excited for a little taste or two) but rather finding a common ground and a shared new adventure.
We had no idea what we were getting ourselves into or how much we would come to learn and love- not just about bourbon- but also about Kentucky!
Terms of the Trail:
Rickhouse: A building or structure used for storing or stacking barrels of bourbon.
Mashbill: The recipe of the grains contained in each bottle of bourbon.
Angel’s share: This refers to the amount of liquid that evaporates out of the bourbon barrel during the aging process.
Devil’s cut: This refers to the amount of bourbon or whiskey that gets absorbed into the wooden barrels during the aging process.
White dog: Raw, unaged whiskey distillate.
Still: A distillation apparatus used to distill liquors, some are columns and others are pot stills.
Kentucky Hug: This refers to the opening of flavors and warmth that “hug” the mouth and body after tasting bourbon.
Fermentation: This is the first step in bourbon production. The grains from the mashbill are ground together and then hot water and yeast are added to convert the natural sugars to alcohol. The chunky liquid produced is called distillers beer.
Distillation: This is the second step in bourbon production. The distiller’s beer is heated in a still and the alcohol vapors are condensed and collected as a liquid. The product is often distilled 2-3 times.
Maturation: The final stage of bourbon production. The distilled product is stored in charred, new oak barrels and follows the rules of the bourbon ABC’s.
Trip #1 Itinerary:
First stop: Louisville, KY.
Instead of flying into Louisville, KY (Bourbon Trail headquarters) we met up in Nashville, Tennessee and drove three hours north to Louisville. It was my first time exploring the Bluegrass State and my first observations were that it was quite lush and beautiful–lots of rolling hills (which Dad called mountains) and red barns with farms under a big, open sky.
About thirty minutes outside of Louisville we saw signs for the Jim Beam Distilling Co. We didn’t plan on making the stop but we were so excited to see our first distillery that we decided to go for it. Shortly after the exit, we saw the iconic Jim Beam logo on an old white barn.
It was in that moment I realized the full effect of marketing and advertising that surrounds our daily lives. For the next several days we would be delving deeper into these familiar logos and brands, learning what they were all about. I instantly wanted to see the process of how these products were created from start to finish–from grain to distilling to being placed on the shelf.
We made it to the main entrance and gift shop just before closing. We missed the last tour, but it gave us an idea of what we might expect to see on this trip: gift shops, tasting rooms, historic buildings, distilling rooms, and iconic labels surrounded by lush landscapes. As we walked around and looked at the products, I noticed a small brown book labeled “bourbon passport.” The clerk behind the counter explained how it worked and suddenly we were more committed than ever to tour the trail!
We arrived in the city center of Louisville, KY after dark. We found a good deal for lodging at the Galt House, located on the Ohio River. The city and the riverfront felt alive. We checked-in to our room and then walked down the street to Merle’s Whiskey Bar; southern-style food and whiskey? Yes, please!
Day 1: Hitting the Trail
The next morning, we woke up and ate breakfast at the hotel, overlooking the river. It was a cloudy, rainy day but we felt energized and glad to be together.
Our first distillery tour of the day would be Buffalo Trace Distillery. In my previous post I mentioned that not all of the distilleries in Kentucky are on the official Kentucky Bourbon Trail, Buffalo Trace is one of them. However, it is definitely one of the best bourbon tours in the country (and one of our personal faves)!
What really stood out to me was the vastness and beauty of the property itself, along with the many historic rickhouses. You just feel surrounded by history at Buffalo Trace.
As we later learned, many well-known bourbon makers have had an association with what is now known as Buffalo Trace…such names as: EH Taylor, George T. Stagg, Blanton, Pappy Van Winkle, Elmer T. Lee, and more.
Note: Prior to our first bourbon trip, I was not familiar with the oh so popular Pappy Van Winkle….So, in addition to getting bourbon passport stamps, we also began our quest for a taste of this hugely hyped (and expensive) bourbon. I will share about the moment we finally got to taste some Pappy in post #4 of the series.
Not all distilleries are the same. Some only offer tastings, others have tours and tastings. Most charge for one or the other. The cool thing about Buffalo Trace is that the tour is FREE and includes a tasting! However, reservations are definitely a must! Click here for availability.
The Process:
Fermentation–> Distillation –> Maturation = Bourbon
The above process is essentially what you get to witness when touring the Kentucky Bourbon Trail distilleries. It is such a cool experience to get a behind the scenes look at how our country’s leading brands produce their bourbons! It feels like being in a big science lab! As you explore different distilleries it is interesting to compare mashbills and see what makes different bourbons and brands unique!
Next Stops Along the Trail:
After Buffalo Trace we then drove 20 minutes south to Woodford Reserve Distillery. The outside of this distillery felt like quintessential Kentucky with white picket fences and gorgeous buildings! We enjoyed lunch in the main visitor center and signed up for a tasting. We didn’t have time for a tour but enjoyed their bourbon tasting selections, the straight bourbon was my favorite.
Next, we continued another 20 minutes south to Wild Turkey Distilling Co. This was a smaller venue compared to the other two distilleries, but the friendliness of the staff was top notch! We sat and tried a small flight of their bourbon offerings. We tried the Russell’s Reserve Rye and the Longbranch (mesquite). They both contained a long Kentucky hug for my palate.
Bourbon Trail Trip # 1 Totals:
Distilleries: 4, Passport stamps: 3. Memories: Abundant!
We Had Fun Off-Trail:
Since this was our first trip, we planned things to do on and off the bourbon trail in case we didn’t return to the region. (Little did we know we would be back several more times and still counting….)
We continued our way back towards the Nashville airport. However, we couldn’t leave Kentucky without visiting Mammoth Cave National Park. We checked into the Lodge at Mammoth Cave and stayed in one of their cabins for the night. Not every National Park has onsite lodging so that was really cool to stay inside of a National Park.
We had reservations for the Extended Historic Tour, which was a 2-mile tour that included seeing an 1840s tuberculosis unit inside the cave! We walked through narrow passageways along with huge rotundas! It was an awesome cave tour adventure! We definitely had fun! You can read about the cave tour descriptions here and make your reservations here, through Recreation.gov.
After our time at Mammoth Cave, we arrived back in Nashville. We checked in to a hotel close to the airport and then took a rideshare to downtown. This was my Dad’s first time to experience Nashville’s honky tonks. We walked up and down Broadway, popping in and out of live music venues. Tootsie’s and Layla’s are two original venues and are still hot spots for good singer-songwriter talent. We had dinner on the rooftop at Ole Red’s (Blake Shelton’s new restaurant and live music venue). It was a great way to wrap up our first bourbon tour.
We headed back to the hotel and sat in the lobby. We talked, laughed, and then packed up for the morning flight.
Grateful for our time together on the trail and off the trail!
In the next post, I will share about historic Bardstown, Bourbon Manor, Heaven Hill Distillery, Maker’s Mark, and several other stops. Stay tuned.
Wilderness & Rye 
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