Kentucky Bourbon Trail: Round 2!
(This is part three of a five-part series. Parts one and two can be found here and here.)
After experiencing the bourbon trail for the first time, Dad and I made a return trip six months later! Our interest and thirst had been piqued! We decided it only made sense to visit Bardstown, Kentucky since it is known as the Bourbon Capital of the World (R).
Trip Itinerary: Day 1
We met up again in Nashville, TN and then drove together to Bardstown. We were eager to explore more about the history, production, and nuances of the bourbon culture.
We checked in to the Bourbon Manor Bed and Breakfast. The owner was very helpful, and the breakfast was excellent!
[Note: I later learned that this Bed and Breakfast had previously been a plantation home. I have had mixed feelings about how to write about this stay. In my research on how to better think about and understand slavery-era structures and plantations, I have come to believe that such places should have a sign or plaque honoring those slaves who lived, worked, and died in these areas. I also do not want to write in a way that romanticizes or sanitizes plantation life, as slavery was a very real and grievous part of American history.]
As we sat at the bar of the Bunghole Lounge, my Dad stumbled upon an article listing bourbons similar in taste to Pappy Van Winkle. It may have been this one from Men’s Journal. Thus, in addition to our pursuit of Pappy, we began to explore Wellers, Larceny, and Maker’s Mark. Familiar with Maker’s Mark, we savored it anew, mindfully discerning its flavor notes in anticipation of the day we might sample the legendary Pappy.
For dinner, we decided to explore downtown Bardstown and we found Mammys Kitchen and Bar. They served a hot brown, which is something I got to check off of my must-try southern food list.
Hot Brown: The hot brown originated in Louisville, KY at the Brown Hotel by Fred Schmidt. It is an open-faced sandwich consisting of turkey, ham, and bacon drenched in gravy. The bread is baked or broiled until crispy.
Trip Itinerary: Day 2
Bardstown, KY
We checked out of our Bed & Breakfast and began to explore distilleries around Bardstown. We started the day by visiting the Bourbon Heritage Center and distillery located at Heaven Hill.
We explored one of the numerous rickhouses on the estate—they were abundant! Heaven Hill is in fact the distillery responsible for 100 different bourbon labels!
Following the tour, we participated in a tasting, which was my first encounter with Elijah Craig Small Batch. Very impressive. We thoroughly enjoyed the tour, especially since Heaven Hill is the largest independent bourbon producer! There was a wealth to observe and discover!
We then visited Bardstown Bourbon Company. During our visit, this distillery had just opened, and a lot of the focus was on the cafe area. So, we had lunch in their new facility and got our bourbon trail passport stamp. We had to leave to make our reservation at Maker’s Mark.
Like several other distilleries that we have visited, Maker’s Mark had a sprawling property consisting of many different rickhouses, production facilities, and a cafe. We enjoyed the tour and the smells of the fermentation process! I particularly enjoyed learning about Margie Samuels, the co-founder, who designed the distinctive label and creative branding, including the famous red wax bottle seal. You can read about the meaning of the Maker’s Mark symbol here.
At the end of our tour, we signed up to make our own hand-dipped bottle! It made a great souvenir!
Side Note:
If you are a true crime enthusiast, then you might be interested to learn that there have been several unsolved murders in Bardstown. While we were driving around town visiting distilleries, I kept seeing signs posted around town referencing missing women. So, I explored further and found this podcast detailing several unsolved cases. You can explore the podcast called Beyond Bardstown.
Trip Itinerary: Day 3
Downtown Louisville, KY
Touring the Angel’s Envy distillery was a delightful experience! The guide conducting the tasting was exceptionally informed and humorous. We savored the bourbon selection paired with an assortment of fruits and chocolates—a perfect combination! Additionally, the view of the production area and the copper stills was fascinating.
Old Forester, Evan Williams, and Michter’s distilleries are all on the main drag in downtown Louisville. So, we walked around downtown and explored.
The staff at Old Forester were incredibly fun and friendly. This was my least favorite bourbon as far as taste, but a lot of folks seemed to enjoy this one.
I really loved the renovated building and architecture that housed Michter’s Fort Nelson Distillery. The building was centrally located on the corner of W. Main Street and N. 8th Street–had a lot of character! The bourbon tasting was fun, and I felt partial towards the Kentucky Straight Bourbon sample. Dad seemed to prefer the Kentucky Straight Rye.
We did not plan on touring the Evan Williams distillery due to time. But we were able to see where they were located and got our bourbon passport stamp.
We wrapped up the bourbon trail section of this trip and then ventured to what has now become our tradition after bourbon tasting: Mammoth Cave National Park!
This time we met up with my aunt and uncle and tried the lantern tour of Great Onyx Cave!
The lantern tour was awesome! The geological features of the cave came alive with the lantern light. Lots of stalagmites and stalactites! We even saw a cave salamander (Eurycea lucifuga). So cool!
We said goodbye to my aunt and uncle and then headed back to the Nashville airport to await our flight.
So, what do bourbon and caves have in common? Family bonding. Grateful for our time together.
Stay tuned: In the upcoming series, I’ll recount the time we finally savored Pappy Van Winkle bourbon, discovered an astonishing bistro with an exceptional bourbon collection, toured the largest bourbon barrel manufacturing plant in the world, and experienced completing our first Kentucky Bourbon Trail Passport book.
Wilderness & Rye 